Lean towards lene
I haven’t reviewed restaurants professionally for almost a decade. But I’d like to comment a little on a new restaurant called lene, its first letter fashionably lower-case. Owner-chef Cameron Williams is 25 and has an impressive background in cooking. Apprenticed at 17 to Jacques Reymond, whose comprehensive and rigorous culinary skills I’ve admired and written about for decades, he went on to work in Michelin-starred restaurants in London and Copenhagen before returning to his home town Melbourne with a dream …